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At Manresa with Erwan Faiveley

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From left to right: Rona, Clinton, Iron Chevsky and Erwan Faiveley Great dinner with Erwan Faiveley last night. My wine buddy Clinton organized an intimate get-together at Manresa, and Rona and I jumped on the opportunity to get to know Erwan, whom previously I had only met briefly at a couple of super-hectic La Paulee events. Despite being the head of one of the oldest and most important (since 1825) Burgundian franchises - Domaine Faiveley , which makes 70 or so different bottlings from some of the most sought after appellations in Burgundy, and a chairman of a number of other family businesses in France, Erwan, just 34, with MBA from Columbia, turned out to be totally easy-going, cool guy. The couple of Grand Cru's that he hand-delivered from France were a rare treat. The 2007 Chambertin Clos de Beze (really the first vintage that Erwan took full control of the domaine) was suave, elegant, plush, without hard edges, with great balance of fruit and acidity, a haunti...

Manresa delights

Manresa - my favorite Bay Area gastronomic restaurant south of San Francisco, two Michelin stars well-deserved. The garden freshness of their dishes seems to represent a style perhaps slightly less fancy and lighter on its feet than French Laundry. Rona and I used to come here for anniversaries until we had a baby. Recently remodeled into a more modern feel, prices notched higher, a 15-course chef-menu dinner ensued. The wine director suggested a tasty bottle of Blanc de Noirs Champagne (100% Pinot Noir) by a relatively obscure producer Barnaut. At under $50 retail ($125 at the restaurant) this is a good value. Then Dan and I pulled out our own suave 2004 William Fevre Chablis Bougros Grand Cru and the mesmerizing Domain Jacques Prieur 2001 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru Red Burgundy. The latter was in the early stages of its adulthood, starting to show incredible secondary notes, satiny texture, and all the elements that kept me glued to the glass until the wine was gone - reminding...