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Domaine du Chevsky Goes on the Road - Dinner at Rob’s

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Last Sunday, Domaine du Chevsky went on the road. For once, our regular gathering moved out of my place and across the Bay to Rob’s in San Francisco. Different kitchen, same basic idea: a table full of friends, everyone contributing something, a progression of food that gets increasingly ambitious, and enough interesting bottles to make the afternoon stretch very happily into the evening. This one was particularly good. We started extravagantly: four dozen oysters, four different kinds , tasted side by side in a deliberate progression. First were Earthquakes from Tomales Bay , plump and meaty, slightly sweet with a mild briny finish. Then Dukes from the Atlantic Coast , much more saline, with a buttery, briny opening and an almost scallop-like sweetness on the finish. Back to Tomales Bay for the Sweetwaters , distinctly marine and salty up front, followed by clean sweetness and a subtly smoky, mineral finish. Finally, Highwaters from Humboldt Bay , lighter in brine, with seaweed-l...

An Extraordinary Night of Champagne: Krug ’88, Clos des Goisses ’96, Selosse & More

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An extraordinary Champagne dinner organized by Harumi at  Cafe Pro Bono in Palo Alto. This was a genuinely special opportunity to appreciate Champagne: not simply a collection of great bottles, but a lineup spanning nearly four decades, from legendary mature wines to some of the most exciting grower Champagnes being made today. Several of these are produced in tiny quantities and are difficult enough to encounter individually; tasting them side by side, contributed and shared by everyone around the table, was quite something. The food at Cafe Pro Bono was, as always, delicious and expertly prepared. Their polished Italian cooking is especially well suited to a serious wine dinner, letting the ingredients and wines speak for themselves. The prawns and pasta dishes were terrific — particularly the sautéed prawns and linguine with clams — and absolutely perfect with the Champagnes. We started with NV Veuve Fourny Cuvée “R” Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Premier Cru , a pleasant opener...